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Tavi Gevinson: the Fashion Blogger Becoming the Voice of a Generation泰薇·盖文森:从时尚博主到青少年代言人

原文作者:eva wiseman

tavi gevinson and i are emailing at night—11 pm my time. she's telling me what it felt like four years ago as a 12-year-old blogger, when high-profile1) fashion insiders started saying her writing was too good to be true. they suggested that she, with her dyed grey hair and self-styled fashion shoots in the garden of her family's home in suburban chicago, was not who she claimed to be.
   "when people started to say i was fake, my dad gave me a short story called 'claudine's book', and i've been thinking about it again a lot lately," she says. it's the story of a gifted 12-year-old girl whose stepmother finds, then publishes, her diary. when the diary starts to get attention and journalists begin investigating its author, claudine's stepmother takes credit for2) it. "and instead of denying it, claudine is so sick of the attention that she lets everyone believe her stepmom helped her, and marches off whistling some kind of victory tune, back to her own little world that makes her happy." she continues, "i think my dad had me read this to let me know that attention doesn't promise happiness, and that you don't have to prove anything to anyone but yourself." [论文网]
   this year tavi shifted from novelty3) blogger, a schoolgirl whose work was marveled at4) with eyebrows raised, to legitimate5), confident journalistic voice. at election time she appeared in a public service announcement6) for women's rights, mouthing7) the words to lesley gore's8) "you don't own me"; her ted9) talk, still figuring it out, in which she discusses the impact of popular culture on teenage girls, has been watched more than 273,000 times, and she has quietly politicized her peers with projects like the call for get well soon cards for malala yousafzai, the 14-year-old pakistani girl whose campaigning for education rights led to her shooting in october, 2012. tavi was one of the first of her age group to use the internet successfully, and her declarations have helped raise a generation of girls whose alternative spokespeople are largely apolitical10), largely insecure, and largely at the beginning of a very long diet.
   style rookie, the blog she started aged 11, introduced her to her heroes (miuccia prada, karl lagerfeld, john galliano, and lady gaga11)) and gave way12) in 2010 to editing rookie, an online magazine for girls. within a week they'd had more than one million page views. they publish three times a day: after school, after dinner, and before bed, with a regular column called "literally the best thing ever" and contributions from people like sarah silverman and lena dunham13).

on the anniversary of rookie's launch, a yearbook was published. there are essays about fandom, drugs, and parties. there are interviews with john waters, david sedaris, and joss whedon14), fashion stories inspired by david bowie15) and teenage witche

s. every page of the yearbook is covered with doodles and collages16). illustrations and photos hark back to17) a time long, long before its authors were born.
   most depictions of teenagedom are painted by people looking back on it from a great distance, so it's particularly refreshing to read about it from the inside. pieces like "how to not care what other people think of you" by a 16-year-old rather than a 40-year-old. "it's not about romanticizing youth," explains tavi. "it's about being realistic about how weird and unsexy this can all feel, then recognizing it's a pitifulness literally everyone who has lived past the age of 18 has gone through, and maybe it's not so terrible, and maybe there's even a way to enjoy it."
   what do the 40-year-olds forget? "maybe that being a teenager wasn't so drastically different from being an adult?" she suggests. "one thing adults who read rookie say is how shockingly relevant some of it feels to their own lives. this isn't because rookie is accidentally more relevant to adults; it's because you grow and change and learn and evolve all the time, and it's not like you spend childhood and teenhood preparing for adulthood and then everything is just a flat plane from that point on. it's like when people are shocked that a man like daniel clowes18) can write a realistic teen girl character [in ghost world], and it turns out all he did was treat her as a human."
   it's true—rookie does feel relevant to adult life. partly because, perhaps, the site and its attitude are reminiscent19) of a lost counter-cultural moment where change looked possible. where a grim, feminine moodiness was fashionable and pre-internet, there was a sense of exclusivity that is foreign today. partly because, while we're bombarded with news of the agonies of adolescence, rookie provides hope.
   retrospective hope, too—hope to our 16-year-old selves who are still standing alone at parties pretending we're waiting for the loo20). hillary kelly, at the new republic, is more cynical. to the adults infatuated21) with tavi, hillary kelly writes, "tavi represents a last chance to grasp at youth. she is a manifestation of who they wish they had been—a cool kid with a head start at success in the fashion industry."

 maybe. but perhaps rookie resonates22) because it teaches us things we didn't have time to learn the first time. how to deal with a broken heart, for instance. "we are not saving the world," tavi says, "but there is sadness in all people everywhere, and if rookie contributes at all to making someone feel less sad, or less alone, or more thoughtful, or more creative, or more comfortable with themselves, i feel ok."
   按照我这边(英国)的时间,现在是晚上11点,我和泰薇·盖文森正在通过邮件交流。wwW.11665.com她向我讲起四年前(编注:本文写于2012年)她身为一位年仅12岁的博主时的感受。那时,一些时尚界的业内知名人士开始评论说她的博文写得太好了,好得令人无法相信。他们认为,这个染着灰发、常在芝加哥市郊的自家花园里大拍自诩为“时装照”的女孩不是她所声称的那个人(编注:即该博客的博主)。
   “有人开始说我作假,于是爸爸就给了我一篇名为《克劳汀的书》的短篇故事。最近我又在反复思考这个故事。”她说。《克劳汀的书》讲述的是这样一个故事:12岁的女孩克劳

汀才华横溢,她的继母发现了她写的日记,并将其付梓出版。日记引起关注后,记者开始寻访日记的作者,克劳汀的继母便将这一功劳归为己有。“而克劳汀并没有否认这一点,她非常讨厌这种备受关注的感觉,于是让人们相信日记就是继母帮她写的。而后,克劳汀吹着某种胜利的小调,迈开大步回到了属于她的那个快乐的小世界,”她接着说道,“我觉得爸爸当时让我读这个故事是想让我知道,备受关注并不等于快乐,而且除了你自己,你不必向其他任何人证明什么。”
   泰薇作为一名女学生,在当年开通博客时就文笔斐然,惹来诸多非议。今年,她从当年的那个新潮博主变成了一位充满自信、频频发声的正式媒体人。美国总统大选期间,她出演了一个女性权利公益广告,在广告中对口型跟唱莱斯利·戈尔的歌曲《你并不拥有我》;她在ted大会上发表了题为《探索进行时》的演讲,讨论流行文化对青春少女的影响,目前该演讲视频的观看次数已达27.3万多次;她还悄然不觉地带领同龄女孩参与了众多有政治意味的活动,如倡议向马拉拉·尤萨夫扎伊送去慰问卡——马拉拉是一位14岁的巴基斯坦女孩,因投身教育权利运动而在2012年10月遭到枪击。泰薇是同龄人中第一批成功利用互联网的女孩之一,她的呼声促进了她们这一代女孩的崛起,而这一代女孩的其他代言人大多不关心政治,缺乏自信,并且大半刚刚踏上长期节食减肥之路。
   泰薇11岁时开通的博客“时尚新秀”让她结识了自己的偶像缪西娅·普拉达、卡尔·拉格斐、约翰·加利亚诺和嘎嘎小姐。2010年,为了主编网络女生杂志《新秀》,她把自己的博客放在其次。这本网络杂志创办不到一个星期,其页面访问量就已超过一百万次。杂志每天发布三次,时间分别在放学后、晚饭后和临 睡前。杂志设有一个固定专栏“真正最好的事”,像萨拉·丝沃曼、莉娜·杜汉姆等人都曾为杂志写过文章。
   《新秀》杂志创办一周年之际,泰薇出版了一本年刊,其中有关于追星、毒品和派对的文章,有对约翰·沃特斯、大卫·赛德瑞斯和乔斯·韦登的访谈,还有受大卫·鲍伊和年轻女巫的启发而创作的时尚主题小说。年刊的每一页都满是涂鸦和拼贴画,其中所附的插图和照片让人追忆起久远的过去,那时年刊的众位作者还远未出生。
   目前展现青少年时代的作品大多是由那些只能遥忆当年岁月的成年人创作而成,因此,阅读正值青春年少者的那些青春事让人觉得格外新鲜。例如,《如何不去在意别人的目光》一文就出自一位16岁的作者之手,而非一位40岁的成年人。“我们的杂志并没有把青春理想化,”泰薇解释说,“而是实事求是地揭示出青春都会有的荒诞和无趣,然后让大家认识到这种窘境确确实实是每一个走过18岁门槛的人都曾经历过的。这样,也许青春就没那么可怕,也许甚至还有办法能让我们去享受青春。”
   那40岁的成年人书写的青春会遗漏掉什么呢?“也许是做一个十几岁的孩子和做一个大人并没有太大的不同?”泰薇回答说,“读过《新秀》的成年人表示,他们感到杂志里有些内容与自己的生活惊人地相似。这倒不是因为《新秀》恰巧与成年人联系得更为紧密,而是因为人一直都在成长、转变、学习和进步,不是说童年和青少年是为成年做铺垫,之后的人生道路就能平坦无阻。就像人们觉得很惊讶,不知道像丹尼尔·克莱维这样一个人怎么能把一个十几岁的女孩(漫画小说《幽灵世界》的主人公)写得那样生动传神,而实际上,克莱维所做的不过是把那个女孩当做一位平常人来写罢了。”
   的确如此,《新秀》读来确实让人觉得贴近成年人的生活。也许部分原因是杂志网站及其态度观念会让人回想起一去不返的反主流文化年代,那时一切改变皆有可能,那时忧郁阴柔的无常情绪是一种时尚,属于互联网诞生前的现象,人们还能从中找到一种今天罕见的专属感。部分则是因为,在我们被有关青春如此痛苦的各种新闻狂轰滥炸的时候,《新秀》带给我们的却是希望。
   包括带给过去的希望,带给16岁的我们的希望,尽管我们现在参加聚会依旧没人搭理,只能孤零零地站在一旁假装在排队上洗手间。《新共和》杂志的编辑希拉里·凯利的观点更为犀利。对于那些追捧泰薇的成年人,希拉里·凯利写道:“泰薇代表着最后一次抓住青春的机会。他们也曾希望自己能像泰薇一样,小小年纪就已功成名就,纵横时尚业。”
   也许是这样吧。不过,《新秀》之所以能引起如此反响,可能是因为它教给了我们一些我们最初没时间学的东西,比如如何抚慰受伤的心灵。“我们不是要拯救世界,” 泰薇说,“但世界各地的每个人都会有各自的悲伤,如果《新秀》能让某个人觉得不那么悲伤,或者不那么孤单,或者能让人变得更有思想、更有创造力、对自己更满意,哪怕只有一点点,我就心满意足了。”

 1. high-profile: 引人注目的
  2. take credit for: 把(赞扬、荣誉、功劳等)归于
  3. novelty [?n?vlti] adj. 新奇的;新颖的
  4. marvel at: 对……感到惊讶
  5. legitimate [l??d??t?m?t] adj. 合法的;合理的;合乎逻辑的
  6. public service announcement: 也作public service ad.,公益广告
  7. mouth [ma?θ] vt. 用嘴型不出声地说
  8. lesley gore: 莱斯莉·戈尔(1946~),美国女歌手。其歌曲“you don't own me”表达了女性希望自立的心声。
  9. ted: 全称为technology entertainment design conference,是由美国人理查德·沃尔曼(richard wurman, 1935~)发起的年度大会。大会每年邀请众多科学、设计、文学、音乐等领域的杰出人物登台演讲,分享他们关于技术、社会以及人类的思考和探索。演讲者观点独特,看法新颖,令该会议深受大众欢迎。
   10. apolitical [?e?p??l?t?kl] adj. (指人)不关心政治的;不支持任何政党的
  11. 指四位时尚界名人。miuccia prada指意大利著名品牌普拉达(prada)的首席设计师缪西娅·普拉达(1949~)。karl lagerfeld指有着“时尚界的凯撒大帝”美誉的时尚设计大师卡尔·拉格斐(1935~),他曾任知名时装品牌香奈儿的领衔设计师、创意总监,并自创同名时装品牌与意大利时装品牌芬迪(fendi)。john galliano指法国著名的设计师约翰·加利亚诺(1960~)。lady gaga指在全世界都拥有超高知名度的欧美乐坛天后嘎嘎小姐(1986~),她因极富创造力的夸张怪异造型在时尚界很出名。
   12. give way: 退让,让步
  13. 指美国的两位著名电影人sarah silverman (萨拉·丝沃曼,1970~)和lena dunham (莉娜·杜汉姆,1986~),这两位才女都有多个身份:演员、编剧、制片人等。
&nbs

p;  14. john waters指美国导演、编剧和演员约翰·沃特斯(1946~),其参演的作品有《走遍美国》(family album)、《发胶》(hairspray)等。david sedaris指美国著名幽默作家、脱口秀主持人大卫·赛德瑞斯(1956~),他曾被《时代周刊》评为“最佳幽默作家”,其作品有《甩不掉的尴尬》(when you are engulfed in flames)等。joss whedon指美国著名编剧乔斯·韦登(1964~),其作品有《复仇者联盟》(the avengers)、《玩具总动员》(toy story)等。
   15. david bowie: 大卫·鲍伊(1947~),英国著名的摇滚乐创作型歌手,关于他最普遍的一种说法就是他是音乐上的变色龙,总是随着时尚和风潮不停地变化。
   16. collage [?k?lɑ??] n. 拼贴画
  17. hark back to: 与(过去的某事物)相似;让人忆起(过去的某事物)
  18. daniel clowes: 丹尼尔·克莱维(1961~),美国著名作家、漫画家。漫画小说《幽灵世界》是克莱维的代表作,讲述了两位少女在高中毕业和以后生活之间的这段时间发生的事情。在她们看来这段时间里的现实世界比幽灵世界更可怕。
   19. reminiscent [?rem??n?snt] adj. 令人想起某人(或某物)的;使发生联想的
  20. loo [lu?] n. <英口>厕所
  21. infatuated [?n?f?t?ue?t?d] adj. 着迷的,迷恋着的
  22. resonate [?rez?ne?t] vi. 充满回响
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